And on the 207th Day, She Rose

On the afternoon of September 29th, 2019, I eagerly entered the Appalachian Trail Conservancy’s Harpers Ferry visitor center. Still shell-shocked from my first taste of life on the trail- a life that came without running water, avocado toast, vitamin C serum, or cell phones, but that was blossoming with blisters, a shoulder-clad 40 pound home, a stove the size of a Matchbox car (the convertible variety, not the tractor model, mind you), and more allure than could be measured, I was a kid in a candy store. A tie dyed silicone pint glass, a coffee tumbler, a stack of decals, not one- but two blaze embroidered baseball caps (one for me, and one for Dad), and a yearly membership to the ATC. I had to support the trail in the most immediate way possible, and living 3 hours away from the nearest trailhead, that meant that I would donate to its governing body. Soups, a volunteer at the center and veteran 2018 thru hiker, asked if I needed any assistance. “Yes. Yes, I do. I’ve just been out for my first 4 day backpacking trip on the AT, through ALL of Maryland…and, well, I’m obsessed with it…but how does one maintain adequate supplies to support themselves over the entire 2,200 miles?…Would I have to pre-package boxes of food, of socks, to send to myself for the entire trek before I left home?…And I’d send them to a post-office?…That gives me chest pain…It ends in Maine?…Did you hike North or South?…I’m feeling South…Did you tote instant coffee or could I bring a percolator?…How did you get to the hostels? Uber?…Did it snow?…How much did it cost?…Did you quit your job?…How many months did it take?…And how did you clean your pot? Did you bring dish soap? Didn’t it leak?…So, like, how do you thru hike? ”.

Soups had categorically drawn the short straw.

It was then that the story that this photograph, so beautifully told without caption, caught my attention and brought me to a pause.

Tom Vannoy Mt. Katahdin Photo

I stopped. I stared.

His triumph. His exhaustion. His success. His disbelief. His relief. His commitment. His pain. His power.

It was a palpably dimorphous show of emotion.

And I couldn’t even see his face.

I wanted to take whatever journey that he had just subscribed to. The one that had brought him to his knees.

I didn’t choose the trail.

The trail chose me.


At 11:20am on Monday, October 11th, after 207 days of life on foot, I summited the majestic 5,269 feet of Mama K. Mount Katahdin. Not only does the wooden sign that rests atop her peak signify the Northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail, but my arrival to its legs signified my evolution of self. My confidence. My courage. My strength. My fearlessness. My acceptance. My patience. My wanderlust. My willingness. My dedication. My grit. My pain. My faith. My trust.

I did the thing. The f$&@!#g thing.

Which was, to let go.

Mt Katahdin Summit

It is estimated that only 18% of attempted Northbound thru-hikes are successful in their completion. However, of these 18%, not of the total attempts, only 9% of hikers are purists. A “purist” believes only in hiking uni-directionally north while physically passing each and every single white blaze on foot, in sequence, while carrying their own pack and its contents. Their travel does not include aqua-blazing or yellow-blazing (traversing portions of the trail by water or vehicle, respectively) and encompasses Every. Single. Solitary. Mile. This minority comprises a mere 1.62% of the total number of hikers that set out on foot this spring.

One. Point. Six. Two. Percent.

That’s less than 2 individuals per every hundred, and my estimate is that there were close to 3,200(ish) attempts in 2021.

That’s roughly 64 people.

I pride myself on being one of the 64. One of the 1.62%. One of the elite.

There were 2 separate, but equally poignant, successes for me within this venture:

1.) My decision to make it to the starting line. To resign from my respected position of 14 years. To relinquish my earning potential. To cede my home. To manage the logistics of my life from a telephone. To part with the relationships and comforts of home. To get to Georgia. And start walking.

Success #1…check.

2.) To, in absolute purism, walk the 2193.1 miles of the Appalachian Trail from Georgia to Maine, while navigating its in-betweens, and lay my hands on the wooden sign that had ignited a fervor inside of me back in September of 2019.

Success #2…check.

It was about the journey and the destination.

I fully, fully respect and support the journeys of others that differed from mine. Success is individual, and if authentic to thine self, then it is true. What felt like success to me is by no means the gold standard, nor is it superior to the finish of those that spent part of their time in a kayak, a Volkswagen, road walking on pavement, or who fell short on miles.

As I approached the summit of Barren Mountain at mile 2096.8, it was 8:17pm on the night of October 5th, I was once again relying on my headlamp after the sun had set. I stared at the scramble of rocks that I would need to scale in order to secure water for the night. Water rules the world. There is no dinner, no dental hygiene, no morning oatmeal, no quench for thirst- without water. And I was dry. As a bone. I wanted to stop. I needed to stop. I couldn’t…walk…another…step, I cried to Wallflower. “I’m done. DONE! I’m tired of climbing. Tired of being cold. My knees. It’s not worth it. F&#k this! I CAN’T.CAN’T.”, I sobbed.

“I can’t”.

Think about that.

I could. But I didn’t want to.

Because it was tremendously difficult. Because I had been hiking for 14 hours and still had one more. One more that was hard. That was up. Straight up. Because I already had 2 layers of gloves on, and the tips of my fingers remained numbed from the cold. Because once I found somewhere to rest my head, it would only be the beginning. The appetizer to the bear bag hang, the water retrieval, the tent up, the ramen on, the wet socks off, the bath by moonlight and baby wipes. Only to do it all again.

I could, and you can.

And if you don’t want to take your run after work, to tell her that you love her, to grab ahold of that mic on karaoke night- then that is completely okay. The choice is yours. But take ownership for your actions or lack thereof. It’s empowering. By saying that we “can’t” allows us to hide behind another causation for our decisions in an attempt to free ourselves from responsibility or self-perceived shame. I challenge you, just as I have challenged myself, to use “I want”, “I don’t want”, or “I am afraid” in the place of “I can’t”.

When one must, one can.

You can.


“It’s mostly flat from ‘er on ‘aht. The trail’ll just do a little bit ah ‘dis…”, an intersecting Southbound hiker was proud to share at mile 2152.1 as he raised his arm at a ninety degree angle and undulated his hand in subtle waves, suggesting that our terrain ahead was nothing but grassy balds, occasionally interrupted by a bump or two.

This gentleman was sporting denim jeans on his thru hike.

This day, I reaffirmed that an individual that is long distance hiking in denim cannot be trusted.

The 100 Mile Wilderness presented challenges unforeseen. Roots. Boulders. Clandestine climbs. Rivers sans footbridges, requiring fording. Ankle deep. Knee deep. Even waist deep, in rapids. Aggressive chipmunks. The kind that show their teeth. That make eye contact. That impale an innocent hiker (not mentioning any names) with acorns to her back.


Dr. Warren Doyle, age 71, has hiked the Appalachian Trail in its entirety nineteen times. Nineteen times. He shares with warning, “The trail can and will change you. Your life won’t look the same as when you started. If you don’t want to change, then you need to reconsider your thru hike.”

I have returned to a world that is the same, yet I am different.

I fried my first egg after an internal debate over whether butter or EVOO was the appropriate choice of lubricant over a cast iron skillet. At 10 & 2, I’m handling my vehicle with credence and caution, as I am now capable of traversing in 2 days what I previously was in 207. Despite having in my possession, a duffle bag full of clothing, I have chosen to wear the exact same outfit for the past 7 days. It is comfortable and remains considerably clean; therefore, it is the most reasonable option. I spent the past weekend sleeping in the day bed of a dear friend’s 7 year-old daughter, sharing the room with her hamster, Peanut. Peanut is nocturnal, and I found comfort in the sounds of him spinning in his hamster wheel throughout the night. Reminded me of the critters that I was relieved to find shelter from over the recent months. Had I missed their company? Or was it the sense of earned safety? I also slept with the window open, allowing me to sleep with the rain. Was I relieved to be protected from its discomfort, or was I longing for its familiarity?

When I embarked on this journey, I wasn’t hitting “pause” to return to the album as it had been spinning.

I hit “play”.

I have more to share. More adventure to be had. More answers that are to be lived into.

I will continue to show up in your inbox, if you’ll still have me.

And I will continue to walk.


A knight in my shining four-wheel drive vehicle, Jeremy Bowlby, both the brethren of Donald Webber-Plank (my phone-a-friend and husband of “Fuel”…) and the son of Judy and Dave (my Eastern Pennsylvania saviors and patients of the emergency room), volunteered to drive my wheels to Bangor, ME, allowing me to

A knight in my shining all-wheel drive vehicle, Jeremy Bowlby, both the brethren of Donald Webber-Plank (my phone-a-friend, tent repairman, and husband of “Fuel”) and the son of Judy and Dave Bowlby (my Lititz, Pennsylvania saviors and patients of the emergency room), volunteered to drive my wheels to Bangor, ME the week preceding my finish. Not only has this allowed me to embark on the open road ad lib as I ease my way back to Pittsburgh over the next couple of weeks, but Jeremy found himself starring in the “best 36 hours that I’ve had in a very, very long time”, he thanked me. He was gracious for the happenstance that was chock full of reunion with his college roommate, a bicycle transfer, lobster rolls, and a run-in with a Harley-driving, Chattanooga-bred, Ironman Clan. All because he said, “yes”.

Dart, Clix, White Werewolf, Traffic Light, Krypto, and Tequila relaxing outside of Shaw’s Hostel in Monson, ME, 10/4.

Letters of encouragement sent from Ron & Steve, my Big Meadows Campground trail angels!

Their care packages complete with enough MREs to get me through the 100 Mile Wilderness and, naturally, Fireball. As you can see, loaner clothing options were at a minimum at Shaw’s.

Downtown Monson gave me the warmth of fall as I walked down Greenville Road, 10/3.

Warmth from Morrone sent from South Carolina! I had went without a pillow for the previous 247 miles, as mine was leaking beyond repair, and the state of our nation’s supply chain wouldn’t allow for me to receive my replacement. I crafted this fleece hood into a pillow by stuffing it with my dirty clothing. When in Rome… Thanks, Steve!

Warning at the entry of the 100 Mile Wilderness, 10/4. We made it through in 6 days.

Backpacking backpacks on the Appalachian Trail

Bruce, a freelance videographer, approached Wallflower and I in the parking area that led into the 100 Mile Wilderness. He was choreographing a documentary, funded by Oboz Shoe Company, featuring the journeys of Appalachian Trail thru hikers. He hadn’t yet met a female and asked us for an interview. Naturally, I said, “YES!!”, as I reapplied my chapstick, of course. I am fairly certain that it is a rarity to star in a shoe commercial in the midst of the 100 Mile Wilderness…

Wallflower, Boomy, and Dad Jokes asleep in Leeman Brook lean to, 10/5.

North Pond, 10/5.

Morning in the woods
Railroad tracks

Post-fording of Long Pond Stream, 10/5.

Cloud Pond lean to, 10/6.

2100 miles on the morning of 10/6!

View from The Ledges, 10/6.

Sweetwater, myself, and Wallflower with the next day’s climbs in the background, 10/6.

beautiful forest scenery

My very first view of Mount Katahdin from White Cap Mountain, standing 70.3 trail miles away, 10/7.

My friend, Amethyst, who fell ill with tick bite-induced sepsis, requiring extended hospitalization in Duncannon, PA. After she was discharged, she regained her strength at Kind of Outdoorsy Hostel until she felt strong enough to hike once again, staying strong in her mindset of “how”, not “if”. She flipped up to Northern Maine to allow herself to summit Mount Katahdin prior to its closure, where I had the pleasure of crossing paths with her once again. She is now completing her thru hike, hiking Southbound to fill in the gap. Was and continues to be an inspiration for us all, you ROCK, Amethyst!

Red leaves in Maine

Jo-Mary Lake, 10/8.

Fallen red leaves in Maine

My favorite climb in the 100 Mile, 10/9.

Raising my Spam and white cheddar Cheez-Its to Mama K. from Nesuntabunt Mountain!

Mount Katahdin, now 16 miles away as the crow flies and only 36.1 by trail, from the peak of Nesuntabunt, 10/9.

Rainbow Lake at sunrise, 10/10.

Closer and closer she got as I proceeded through the 100 mile, now 21.2 trail miles away from Rainbow Ledges, 10/10.

Colorful bald of Rainbow Ledges.

Freshly through the 100 mile Wilderness, I saw Mount K. from ABOL bridge over the Penobscot River, her peak only 15.1 trail miles away, 10/10.

I have never done more math than I did on trail. Elevation gains affecting my capable miles per hour…the miles per day…the days until the closure of Katahdin…calories burned…calories consumed…miles until the next post-office…the next resupply…and the number of meals to bridge that gap…water…how much?…the temperature…would it dehydrate my next source?…how many liters should I carry?…do I add the chicken packets to my ramen?…how much does that weigh?…then my pack will weigh… It’s no wonder that I couldn’t keep track of the day of the week or missed birthdays. I’ll make it up to you, I promise!

Sign-up sheet for the Birches Campground at the entrance to Baxter State Park. The Birches is available only to thru hikers and is competitive to receive one of the 12 spots. After leaving this ranger station, there is a nine mile hike to The Birches, which sits at the base of Mount Katahdin in Katahdin Stream Campground.

Sign-up sheet for the Birches Campground at the entrance to Baxter State Park. The Birches is available only to thru hikers and is competitive to receive one of its 12 spots. After leaving this ranger station, there is a 9 mile hike to The Birches, which sits at the base of Mount Katahdin in Katahdin Stream Campground.

AT Tree Engrave
Jenny and Paul, from Florida, struck up conversation as I was hiking the 9 mile stretch to The Birches. Paul was in disbelief, “I’ve never met one of you!”. I was now a “species”. They were absolutely wonderful in their excitement and kindness in sharing all of the snacks and fruit that they had on their backs, as we were out of food!

Jenny and Paul, from Florida, struck up conversation as I was hiking the 9 mile stretch to The Birches. Paul was in disbelief, “I’ve never met one of you!”. I was now a “species”. They were absolutely wonderful in their excitement and kindness in sharing all of the snacks and fruit that they had on their backs, as we were out of food!

206 days later, I signed the logbook at Katahdin Stream campground, just as I had done atop Springer Mountain in Georgia.

206 days later, I signed the logbook at Katahdin Stream campground, just as I had done atop Springer Mountain in Georgia.

The birches
At dusk and with only Jenny and Paul’s snacks to rely upon, we arrived to The Birches only to meet Kathmandu, Fire Feet and Strider who were grilling fresh turkey burgers, roasting potatoes and onions, and providing all of the root beer and homemade pumpkin pie that we could stomach! If I’ve said it once, I’ll say it a million times- The. Trail. Provides.

At dusk and with only Jenny and Paul’s snacks to rely upon, we arrived to The Birches only to meet Kathmandu, Fire Feet and Strider who were grilling fresh turkey burgers, roasting potatoes and onions, and providing all of the root beer and homemade pumpkin pie that we could stomach! If I’ve said it once, I’ll say it a million times- The. Trail. Provides.

My last official morning beacon, 10/11 at 04:31am.

4.1 more miles!

Honey Bun break at 09:07am.

Climbing oer boulders

Approaching “The Gateway” at 09:27am.

09:45am.

I reached “The Gateway”, a mile long stretch that precedes Katahdin’s last summit, at 10:37am.

The “Knife’s Edge” of Mount Katahdin.

And at 11:20am, on October 11, 2021, I became a thru hiker.

Wallflower and I summited together, but purposefully separated ourselves by a half of a mile in order to keep our finishes private.

My rock. My best friend. And my hiking partner since mile 167. “Dips, if I wanted to go fast, I’d go alone. If we want to go far, we go together.”, he reiterated.

“Hey Yinz, I did it!!”. This ‘#1 Dad’ Terrible towel was a gift from me for my Dad when I was only knee high to a grasshopper! My parents sent it to me in their care package to Monson, ME.

Wallflower and Sarah top of Katahdin

A celebratory sip of Steve’s Fireball!

Wallflower, myself, and G Daddy summited within minutes of one another.

Mount Katahdin summit plaque

And then…I had to get…back…down… Now that I had completed the AT, I had my pick of a handful of trails that descended the big K. Each with their own pros and cons, we chose the ABOL trail for its shorter distance of 3.4 miles (pro) but proceeded with caution for its steepness and bouldering (con). It took 4 hours and 35 minutes to descend, totaling 13 hours and 7 minutes to get from The Birches > uuuuup > savor the moment > and hike back dooooown.

I envisioned steak tartare, fresh Caesar with anchovy and some bubbly after this lifetime achievement. No. It was a series of 2 hitchhikes and ramen at a picnic table on the brim of a logging road before we made it to Millinocket, ME for our first shower in 9 days, off-brand cherry Pop Tarts and 2 sips of PBR before I was sawing logs.

Our post-summit destination in Millinocket, ME. I would highly recommend!

I had first met Ken in Pearisburg, VA at Angel’s Rest Hostel. We hadn’t seen one another since Waynesboro, VA but exchanged messages throughout the remainder of our hike, ensuring that the other was well. I had perpetually been a handful of days behind him, only to walk into The 100 Mile Wilderness Inn to a big bear hug from Ken! He had summited the day before me, and we exchanged stories until his flight back to Tampa Bay, FL the following morning.

Post-Summit FaceTime with my child wonder, Deja Vu! She completed her thru hike on October 10th, the day before me!

A tearful goodbye (understatement) with Wallflower in Bangor, ME as he left to return to Titusville, FL, 10/13. “It’s not goodbye, it’s see ya later.”, he reminded me.

Aunt Sandra and Uncle Roy championed my finish just as they did my start! Driving to meet me in Millinocket the day following my summit, we spent time in together in Acadia National Park and Bar Harbor, ME before they returned to Pittsburgh for Gram’s 95th birthday!

Acadia National Park

Sand Beach, Acadia National Park, 10/13.

Sarah Robison in Acadia
Acadia National Park water views
Laying on the beach in Acadia National Park

Bar Harbor, ME, 10/13.

Rope in Bar Harbor

Finally had my delectable lobsta’ roll!

Bar Harbor Art
Maine's Oldest Bookstore
Town of Bar Harbor
Sarah Robison in Bar Harbor

I was met with 26, twenty-six, tokens of congratulations upon my completion. And I didn’t expect one. To be so loved is astronomical.

Holly Broadbent-Horvat to the rescue…again.

Ramesh Grandhi, Rachel, Fauls, Helinski, Fleegle-Vitsas, Gallegos, John Jones, Lasica, The Ories, Dara, Patti Heslep, Czerniak, Margaret Lucas, Joyce and Wally Scott, Weir, Fasenella, Dixon-Ernst, Tssario, Ruzicka, Tomas Drabek, The Cisneys, McCrea, Byrne, Kauffman, and Morgan sent a note, a high-five, a foot mask, a face mask, or a couple of greenbacks- their support. Their love. Their postal hugs. Y’all have no idea how comforting it felt to climb out of the woods only to find my friends waiting for me.

Ramesh Grandhi, Rachel, Fauls, Helinski, Fleegle-Vitsas, Gallegos, John Jones, Lasica, The Ories, Dara, Patti Heslep, Czerniak, Margaret Lucas, Joyce and Wally Scott, Weir, Fasenella, Dixon-Ernst, Tssario, Ruzicka, Tomas Drabek, The Cisneys, McCrea, Byrne, Kauffman, and Morgan sent a note, a high-five, a foot mask, a face mask, or a couple of greenbacks- their support. Their love. Their postal hugs. Y’all have no idea how comforting it felt to climb out of the woods only to find my friends waiting for me.

Breakfast in Bangor.

Jaime. Naughton. Jaime and I met in 2005 while starting our graduate studies in Nurse Anesthesia at the University of Pittsburgh. Since our graduation in December of 2007, aside from her visiting for my wedding, we hadn’t seen one another and had spoken on the phone only once. She got wind of my trek and grabbed ahold of the sails, anxiously awaiting my arrival to her home state, Maine. We made plans for me to stay with her in Hampden, ME once off trail before I embarked on my road trip. The connection that we now share highlights our previous kinship as a mere stepping stone to what we have now manifested, 10/15.

Darby, Jaime’s 7 year old daughter, with their pup, Wally.

Lobster bisque and Pino, 10/16!

Blogging at Blaze Brewing, Bangor, ME, 10/17.

Maine, the way life should be.

Nolan, Jaime’s 10 year old son.

Keller, Jaime’s 12 year old son, making Rice Krispie treats!

She followed my hike on her topo map throughout my time in Maine.

Jaime’s husband, Matt, and his parents Gemma and Pops who were in town visiting from New Jersey during my stay!

Portland, ME, 10/18.

Sheldon and Marilyn

I met Sheldon and Marilyn, from Missouri, at Rosie’s Pub in the Old Port district. After learning of my story, they paid for my lunch without me knowing. Is it the trail that provides? Or are we provided for when we open our hearts and our minds?…

Dinner at The Thirsty Pig!

John and Lena

John and Lena, staff at the Black Elephant Hostel in Portland, ME. A MUST stay!

My first visit to an organic grocer since March, The Portland Food Co-op, 10/19. I was teary as I touched the produce, overwhelmed by the choices that I was afforded, the vibrant colors, my ability to satiate what I craved. In ways, it was my reintroduction to “Sarah”. I thanked the sales clerk. No, let’s be honest- I hugged him.

French press, face masks, and NPR in the studio of The Black Elephant. I felt human again.

Sand Beach, Acadia National Park, October 13th

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