From Franklin to Fontana
“Ron Haven for President!”, we all chanted as 14 of us poured out of the trail legend’s 6 passenger van.
Each of us, as well as our tents, utterly saturated with rain and mud, were too physically defeated and mentally taxed to tackle any more miles last Wednesday. Coupled with the threats of below freezing temps later that night, our safety was in jeopardy, and we simply needed to get off trail. Pinch phoned his old friend, Ron, the proprietor of Baltimore Jack’s hostel in Franklin, NC and arranged for our pick-up at the Rock Gap trailhead which was only a stone’s throw away. “He’ll be there in 13 minutes people! HURRYYYYYY!!!” The sleeping bags were being jammed into their stuff sacks as rainflies were shoved into mesh outpouchings, “7 MINUTESSSS!!!” Crocs frantically switched out for trail runners and the chorus of an army of deflating sleeping pads rang loudly, “3 MINUTESSSS!!!”, Pinch called out. 4th quarter and I were the last ones to arrive as we discovered that what we thought would be a “bus” was actually a van. Ron refused to leave a single hiker behind in the downpour which made for hiker stew on wheels, complete with yours truly rear-facing, sitting on Haven’s gear shifter.
One may have urinated in the vestibule of their tent during such rainy conditions. May have. Not mentioning any names. As a female, those were some Matrix-like maneuvers right there.
Deja and I immediately prioritized laundry after checking into our “suite” (clearing my throat...). I bypassed the washer with probable sea urchins lurking within its stagnant pool of charcoal colored water and chose the one with signage that read “MAY BE OUT OF ORDER. USE COLD CYCLE ONLY.” Jury is still out as to whether I chose correctly.
What does one wear when said person is washing ALL of the clothing in their possession, you may be asking?
A puffy coat and a sarong made of the pastel pink and white floral bathroom towel.
Genius, if I do say so myself.
After I stuffed myself with Huevos Rancheros, two Negro Modelos, and a shots of Hornitos for the table, it was “home” to handle my tent. I overheard a comrade suggesting that the tent be put in the shower to be cleansed of its mud and foliage. Sounded completely reasonable to me.
Into the tub it went. Footprint and all.
And into the drain I went, elbow deep in hair retrieval that had most likely been one with the plumbing since 1981, as I attempted to manually snake the debris that was preventing the sludge from draining. My dry heaves were only interrupted by my need to come up for air. Not enough tequila in North Carolina for a job this ratchet.
It was time to meet the Tramily at The Lazy Hiker Brewing Co., so I set-up my tent to air dry on our communal concrete slab of a “porch”. As I walked away, thoughts of Deja’s advice to weight the tent down were marinating...but it wasn’t windy...and I was thirsty...so I kept motoring.
Poor life choice.
3 hours later I received the call from Pistol, “Dips, the Nemo Dragonfly 2 is yours, right?!?” ”Uh huh”, I answered. She continued, “I just had to stop traffic on Main Street...”
My (very clean) tent was doing roundabouts into town, and very serendipitously Pistol was staring out of her bunk’s entryway to witness my failure. Her heroism saved me upwards of $500.00.
Take home- weight your tent when not properly staked to the earth.
The next morning we shuttled to the very gracious ALL YOU CAN EAT pancake breakfast that the First Baptist church hosts for thru hikers each March 15th through April 15th. After stuffing our faces with 3 helpings of pancakes, a handful of bacon, OJ, and 32oz. of caffeine, it was time to deal with my...
Lesions.
I have developed multiplying clusters of blister-like lesions on the backside of my hands. Not itchy, but painful, I capitalized on my last viable day of respectable health insurance through a video visit with a practitioner back at home. She had never seen anything like it despite having a background in tropical medicine. Told me to soak my hands in vinegar. I rubbed proverbial dirt on my wounds and moved on. 7 days later, they remain and resemble more of a science experiment with each passing day. I’ve dabbled in borrowed hydrocortisone creme as well as an anti-fungal that a comrade is toting for her history of athlete’s foot. The time has come to hitch to an urgent care for an examination. Me? Seeking medical counsel? Shocker.
Franklin was all-inclusive, filled with pristine customer service and honest advisement at Outdoor 76 (added a thermogenic bag liner to my sleep system to prepare for the Smokies), evening hostel yoga hour to stay loose, the resupply at Ingles, and the conquering of a trail milestone for yours truly...
I polished off an entire medium Hawaiian pizza. By myself.
Hiker hunger has arrived.
My miles between Franklin and Fontana Dam have been met with frost and fever. On Friday, April 2nd the temperature dipped down to a calculated 1 degree Fahrenheit at the 5272 foot elevation that I was sleeping atop. Waking up to ice covered foliage, an icy sleeping bag and frozen drinking water seemed like a distant memory as I climbed 3,000 feet in a short 6 miles with zero switchbacks in 78 degree weather on Monday afternoon. I dreamt of the recent past that I needed 4 layers to merely stay mildly comfortable as I craved the next water source each time that I ran dry.
Easter Sunday began with me laying catatonic in my 15 degree Magma mummy bag, complete with my brandy new 20 degree liner, before my 2800 foot decent into the Nantahala Outdoor Center, the “NOC”, and ended with a reunion of friends from different seasons of the Northbound bubble, soaking our feet in the Nantahala River and sharing too many PBR pounders. We’re working hard, and we’re playing hard.
Speaking of work. It was best said by David “AWOL” Miller, as he wrote about his 2003 thru hike on the AT (it’s a fantastic read, you should get your nose into a copy), that if we were subject to comparably merciless conditions as a paid employee, WE. WOULD. QUIT.
Period.
So why the continued persistence as a volunteer?
Because when we get to willingly CHOOSE everyday, the when’s and how’s, there is freedom.
Many have reached out to share how my choice to take this on has inspired them to contemplate “X”, “Y”, or “Z”. But how? Stop dreaming and start doing. Now. You and your fears are your own biggest obstacle, as were mine. Whatever it is, you CAN. Channel your will, then find your way.
Tabby- get out your scary intimidating paint by number from the basement if you haven’t already. This is an order. I’ve decided that you’ll be gifting it to me upon my return.
Now, let’s keep walking.